Technical Tips

This page will be updated periodically with helpful hints and tips submitted by our members. If you have a tip you want to pass along to your Catalina 42 compatriots, please drop the Catalina 42 International Association Webmaster a note via e-mail. The following is our current list of tips.

Maintenance Schedule
Raw Water Impeller
Commissioning Checklist
Maintenance Guide
Mast Tuning 

There have been some questions about a schedule of maintenance items for our Catalina 42's. I recently created one and uploaded it to:

http://www.catalina42.org/c42maintenance02.xls

You will notice at the end of it is a link to download an Excel spread sheet so you may plug in your own dates... If you feel any items should be added or modified, please search the Discussion Forum for "schedule" (without the quotes) and post a reply with your comments. The following is a link to the Forum:

http://catalina42.org/wwwboard/wwwboard.html

Norm Perron
11/02

January 15, 1997

Bob Zoller, Commodore
Catalina 42 International Association
Re; Water pump impeller

Dear Mr. Zoller,

In order to answer your inquiry about the time necessary to replace the raw water pump on your 4JHE YANMAR marine engine I have to assume a few things. This is the actual time spent on the pump and it does not include travel time or any other charges. The pump was accessible or at least as accessible as can reasonably be expected.

Your water pump is gear driven from the front of the engine. YANMAR has chosen this for a couple of reasons. This type of pump is free from any belt maintenance worries. It is also free of alignment problems. While being more expensive to manufacture, this type of pump is more trouble free and lasts much longer than most belt driven pumps. If you check most larger more expensive engine, this is the type of pump preferred. This pump also can be installed in a smaller envelope. Size of the engine is now becoming of paramount importance to the boat manufacturer. Serviceability is not. It wouldn't matter if our engine was very easy to service if the builder would not purchase it. I have personally serviced JH propellers on many occasions. If access is reasonable, I shut off the raw water intake and battery switch. Next I loosen the two bolts holding the starter in place and rotate it out of the way without disconnecting the wiring. From this point on I work the old impeller out of the housing and replace it with a new one.

The other option is to remove the pump as an assembly. This is probably the best option (Ed.) as it allows for the best inspection of the pump assembly. This requires the removal of three bolts and one nut as I remember and then the pump can be removed as a unit. Once the pump is out the complete housing, bearing, cam, and wear plate can be inspected. It is usually quite difficult to inspect these components with the pump in place. We use a wear plate to increase the life of the pump housing. Once the pump can be placed on a bench, it is relatively easy to replace the impeller by lubricating it and pushing it into place. One reason this procedure takes a little longer is that when the pump is removed, a gasket must be cleaned off of the timing gear cover of the engine. We make every effort to make a very strong pump as serviceable as possible. Up to about 30 horsepower a small raw water pump with only a few blades on the impeller is practical. When one pump, to save parts and development costs, is chosen that must work at all ratings from 44HP to 100HP, it sometimes seems a little overkill for the small engine. We do put an "O"ring under the water pump cover so that a gasket is not required and this also reduces the possibility of damage to the pump when the gasket must be scraped off.

FINAL ON THE RAWWATER IMPELLER

In April your editor warned you about changing the raw water impeller. It took Mac, my mechanic four hours to change it.

Rick Fleischman, Bob #330, runs charters in the Northwest. His first charter of 1997 to Sitka Sound was completed in April, leaving the dock with show on the decks and had several days clear enough to see glacier covered mountains. On April 11th he wrote: “I was surprised to hear of your experience changing the raw water impeller on your Yanmar. My engine is now five years old and has about 5000 hours on it. I change the impeller annually and have never really had much of a problem. I haven’t done it this year yet, but I’ll make a point to time it when I do. There are just four screws holding the cover plate on. Remove the old impeller by rocking it out with two short screw drivers. Before I install the new impeller, I use Vaseline to lubricate it. It takes a bit of effort to get the impeller’s blades bent and back into place, but I don’t think the whole operation has ever taken more than a half hour. I do rotate the starter out of the way as was mentioned by Mr. Helmer of Yanmar. One consideration on my boat is that I moved the alternator and have a refrigeration compressor in the alternator’s old location. Maybe this gives me better access.”

On May 8th Rick wrote from Sitka that he started changing his impeller at 5:38 PM. And finished at 5:52 PM, after loosening the 4 10mm bolts on the holding cover plate, removing the cover plate and removing the old impeller by 5:42. After lubricating the new impeller with Vaseline, inserting, bending each blade inside the housing & rotating, he replaced the cover and tightened the bolts - all within fifteen minutes despite dropping his wrench into the engine sump and having his fingers full of Vaseline. I can only guess that he was driven by the thought of having that rum drink when he finished.

Commissioning Checklist

PRE-LAUNCH CHECK:

1.__Shaft turns freely by hand, zinc collar installed if required
2.__Check intake hoses and clamps
3.__Check all through-hull fittings
4.__Drain plugs tight, __engine, muffler and exhaust line
5.__Bottom clean, paint OK
6 __Hull sides clean, gel coat OK
7.__Decks clean
8.__Teak cleaned and oiled
9.__Interior finished, oiled, clean
10__Cushions, curtains, clean and in place
11__Hatch lids present and fit OK
12__Lifelines and pulpits rigged and OK
13__Spreaders taped
14__Rigging lengths verified with check list in kit
15__Mast and boom inspected: cotter pins, sheaves, tangs, spreaders OK, mast wedges in place
16__Mast lights checked before mast stepped
17__Check over head for electrical wires which may interfere with the space required to raise the mast to its full upright position. If there are wires of any kind, anywhere near the boat, do not raise the mast. Move boat to another location away from any wires. Contact with wires can be fatal.
18__Mast wiring through hole at base of mast
19__Mast tie down turn buckle in place

ELECTRICAL:

1.__Electrical equipment operational:
___running ___cabin ___bow ___anchor ___spreaders ___pressure ___water ___ macerater pump __master
2.__ Shore power outlet OK
3.__Check battery switch #1___#2 ___
4.__Check battery fluid level
5.__Check battery terminals for tightness

PLUMBING :

1.__No leaks at through hull fittings with seacocks open
2.__Fill all water tanks
3.__Check all water tanks for leaks at fittings
4.__Test all faucets and foot pumps for leaks
5.__Check for leaks at sink drain, sink drains OK
6.__Put water in ice box and check for proper drainage
7.__Check bilge pump operation, handle present
8.__Check heads by flushing and pumping
9.__Check shower sump drain line and discharge pumps
10__Check holding tanks, pumps, vents, and fittings
11__Check heads and pump handles for leaks
12__Main hatch no leaks, slides freely, hatch board fits OK
13__Cabin windows hose tested for leaks
14__Anchor locker drain OK
15__Stove operates OK: Check tank, fuel line, solenoid, burners and oven

RIGGING AND HARDWARE:

1.__Mast stepped, check wedges
2.__Pin, tape and tune standing rigging
3.__Boom vang
4.__Blocks, cars, cleats rigged OK
5__ Test all winches, winch handles present

ENGINE :

1.__No leaks: shaft, rudder, stuffing box, or shaft log
2.__Shaft, dimpled for set bolts at coupling; bolts wired and coupling secured
3.__With fuel tank full, no leaks at fill pipes, overflow vent, or any fuel line connections
4.__With coupling disconnected, engine and shaft alignment OK -- recheck alignment after rigging tuned
5.__Transmission oil level OK
6.__Crank case oil level OK
7.__Fuel valves open, bleed and prime lines of diesel engine
8.__Check that shaft is coupled and aligned to .003 maximum tolerance
9.__Engine wire OK, connections tight
10__Throttle control cable travel and brackets OK
11__Clutch control cable travel and brackets OK
12__Start engine
13__Exhaust water flow OK
14__ No leaks in fuel lines at fitting, fuel filter, fuel pump, or carburetor
15__ No engine or oil leaks
16__ Idling speed set __ RPM's
17__ Check shutoff cable for diesel engine
18__ Check forward and reverse shifting
19__ Check engine instruments for operation, tachometer for calibration
20__ Run in gear for ten (10) minutes
21__ Recheck packing gland after engine stops
22__ Bilge blower and vent system OK
23__ Exhaust system, check for leaks, insulation in place

SAILING CHECK LIST:

1.__Rudder moves freely, 30 degrees each side of center line, minimum
2.__Pedestal steering operation OK, compass OK
3.__Sails and halyards OK
4__ Boat performance under power and sail OK
5.__Emergency tiller, trial fitted and stowed where handy

FINAL CHECK:

1.__All accessory equipment operates OK
2.__All boat, engine, and accessory literature, and/or manuals aboard
3.__Warranty cards completed and mailed, owner registration card attached, owner informed of warranty responsibilities
4.__Engine warranty card completed and mailed

Maintenance Guide

PRE-USE MAINTENANCE:

RIGGING:

1. Inspect turnbuckles - tighten if necessary to tune
2. Inspect clevis pins and cotter pins
3. Visually inspect spreader tips and other areas where sails may chafe during sailing, replace tape as necessary
4. Halyards free and not tangled
5. Inspect mast hardware attachment bolts, tighten as required

HULL AND DECK INSPECTION:

1. Tiller moves freely, pedestal steering OK, rudder post packing gland
2. Bilges and compartments are dry
3. Through hull valves, hoses, and clamps OK
4. Check running lights

ENGINE :

1. Check engine oil and fuel levels
2. Packing gland OK, cooling water intake valve opens and closes OK
3. Throttle shift OK
4. Blower system OK
5. Check bilge areas for fuel before starting engine

MONTHLY MAINTENANCE:

RIGGING :

1. Inspect chain plates, fastenings, and bolts, tighten as necessary
2. Inspect blocks, shackles, cotter pins
3. Check rigging tune, rigging wire condition
4. Check turnbuckles and locking pins

HULL AND DECK:

1. Inspect hull valves, open and close freely
2. Winches turn freely, lubricate as per manufacturer's recommendations
3. Clean and oil exterior teak as necessary
4. Clean and wax gel coat surfaces as necessary

ENGINE :

1. Check oil and fluid levels
2. Battery: Check fluid levels and tie-downs
3. Tighten all bolts and nuts to proper torque
4. Check fuel tank fittings, and hose clamps
5. Disassemble and inspect cooling system anti-siphon (located under galley counter near sink)

SEASONAL MAINTENANCE:

RIGGING :

1. Mast head pins and sheaves turn freely
2. Halyards and Nicropress fittings are in good condition and are taped
3. Spreaders tips and bases, and mast fittings
4. All shroud terminations and swaged fittings
5. Gooseneck assembly and boom assembly
6. Mast, boom, and spreaders cleaned and waxed

HULL, DECK AND CABIN:

1. All chainplates and through bolts tight
2. Disassemble winches and lubricate bearings and pawls
3. Electrical system and battery tie-downs, coat to prevent corrosion, and terminal connectors
4. Drain and flush fresh water system
5. Check head and anti-siphon valve in toilet
6. Hatch gaskets and hold-down dogs
7. Bottom, keel, and rudder condition
8. Lifelines stanchions, and pelican hooks

ENGINE :

1. Check shaft alignment, repack stuffing box if necessary
2. Clean motor thoroughly
3. Inspect fuel system
4. Tune engine as per manufacturer's directions
5. Exhaust system, check for leaks or deterioration, insulation in place

Mast Tuning 

 To optimize performance and minimize the chance of mast failure your mast should be tuned properly.

Note: To be rigged correctly, the Cap shroud must be led through the aft hole in the spreader tips.

Set mast at 0 degree rake to ensure proper performance of the raked spreaders. Increasing rake will allow the spreaders to fall aft of the chain plates & neutralize their proper function.

Determine rake by hanging a weight from the main halyard and adjust the headstay turnbuckle so that the weight falls just to the aft edge of the mast.

Make sure the boat is level and there is no bend in the mast.

You have a keel stepped mast with mast wedges; the wedges should be positioned after adjusting the rake.

Then tighten the backstay to give a slight aft bend in the mast (1" - 2"). Next, the shrouds should be adjusted. Using a tape measure, measure the distance from the first spreaders to the starboard and port chain plates. Tighten or loosen the lower shrouds at the turnbuckles until the distances are equal and the mast is straight. The intermediate or upper shrouds should be adjusted next and slightly less tight than the lower shrouds. Check for mast straightness by sighting up the sail track and adjust the shroud turnbuckles accordingly. The shrouds should be fine tuned while sailing to weather in a moderate breeze. Always adjust the shrouds starting with the lowers and progressing up and be sure to check for mast straightness on both tacks. It is normal for the leeward shrouds to slacken slightly.

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Last Updated on November 18, 2002